Відео

Admittedly I had to ask MicroAir how to hook it up because my wiring didn't match their diagram. I sent them a picture, and they were kind enough to quickly respond with markings on the photo showing exactly where to connect it. Worked out great.

If you're willing to put a bunch of elbow grease into it, it's pretty cool. But out of the box, not so much.

10,500 is probably peak. You'll need that, but also the continuous run watts. With the soft start, if I had most everything else in the house pretty much turned off, it could probably start the AC compressor with just one. Once it's running, no problem, it's only about 11amps to keep it going. Without the softstart, no way. You have a bit more wattage than the Predator (not sure if the running amps are higher also), and your compressor is smaller than mine... so I'd say... probably with some load management in the house. Once you get the softstart installed, it will tell you via the phone app exactly how much power is being used to start and run it, and you can take that and judge what you can have on when it needs to start.

Generally, yeah, you're quite right. For this setup, my enclosure is on wheels so if I need to I can easily scoot it such that it's exhausting out from under the eve. Additionally, the cooling fan for the generator and the exhaust are right next to each other, so it's being propelled quite a bit forward, and, I have a significant sized shop fan on the porch that I can run that further blows the exhaust away and creates quite a bit of airflow. Also the roof there doesn't penetrate into the wall nor goes as high as the attic, so there isn't an easy ingress for the gas into the home. So I'm not too bothered by it in that location. But... before I had this setup, I tried running a small portable generator on my front porch, where up to the second floor it's enclosed on top and on 3 sides, and you're absolutely right, even that small unit, outside but still close to the house, we could absolutely tell was clearly seeping into the house on the second floor and I had to move it. One does have to be careful.

@@Texas_DIY OK, Sounds like your on top of it. Keep up the good work! :)

yeah, annoying, but at least it wasn't a super expensive lesson to learn.

Yes. The columns don't matter. The slots alternate between the legs vertically. That's why 240v breakers are always double breakers, they need two side by side so it can get power from each leg. It's more important that you position the inlet breaker in the right spot such that it's where the interlock plate needs it to be for proper safe operation. So I'd suggest getting the interlock plate first, and then you can determine based on it's design, into which spot your inlet breaker needs to be positioned.

Something like that would work great. But you might consider something like the GENMAX GM9000iED (looks like the current model adds a "c" to the end) on Amazon. It's made by the same factory, and solves all the shortcomings of the other similar models (predator, duromax, etc.) It has an easier access air filter, an oil filter, dual fuel, nice gauges on the front, can parallel them together without making a box, and it also has a remote control, so you could start it without having to go outside.

Yup. I have a series of these videos. In those I explain why I went the way I did. But I'll write it here also. My neighborhood doesn't have natural gas or propane. The added expense of a whole home generator, plus leasing a tank, plus making a suitable pad, plus plumbing the gas from it, made it extremely cost prohibitive. So I opted to go with gasoline instead. Natural gas / propane is superior in that it doesn't go stale in the tank. But I had to work within my budget and my yard.

Well, aren't you a happy little ray of morning sunshine? It doesn't make power, it manipulates it. Motors (compressors) are produced with multiple sets of coils to pull the rotor/axle around and make it turn. The coils need to turn on in sequence. If the motor is at a dead stop, the first coil turning on will just lock it in place under that coil, and the motor will just sit there humming/pulsing and getting hot, because the power is turning on/off 60 times per second but not in a way that lets the motor move. Something needs to make the next coil activate to make the motor move forward, that's the purpose the capacitor serves, delaying the waveform of the AC power a bit, such that the next coil turns on as the first is turning off... so the motor begins moving forward. It takes a lot of energy to do this from a dead stop, just like it takes more gas for your car to start moving from a stop. The Micro-Air does some manipulation to those phases to more gently start the motor with less SURGE power required. (it's the surge that overloads generators) This would be the car equivalent of gently easing off a clutch without revving the engine, vs. using a ton more fuel to pop the clutch and take off fast. Most motors "pop the clutch", this thing allows the "car" to gently start moving without needing so much of a surge of energy. The Micro-Air product is absolutely legit, and greatly reduces the STARTING amps of the motor, the RUNNING amps, that which is required to keep it moving, will remain the same, because as you so politely pointed out, it's not generating energy. If you watched the video, I explained this, and showed it on screen. Car analogy, no matter how you start out (slow low energy roll or pop the clutch), it still needs the same amount of fuel to drive 70mph.

Mine has been rock solid for several years now. I took photos of the inside of mine and Micro-Air was kind enough to show me exactly where to hook things up. I'd work with them to see if you can come up with a solution. They seem to be a really small shop, so it's not instant answers... but those same guys are the designers and seem to really know their stuff. The unit also has a diagnostic function where it will email them diagnostic info (including your power waveforms), use that from the app, so the can see exactly what your unit is doing.

@@Texas_DIY I commented on their UA-cam company install video. They responded within minutes and an Engineer contacted me shortly after. He knew what to do instantly. He guided me through a couple of adjustments to perform on the Easy Start unit via the app, and problem solved. Great customer service and company. I was very impressed with them. They even emailed me the next morning (which was a Saturday by the way) to check on the unit. Outstanding group of people there!!

I'm just a guy that wanted to have a way to keep the house alive if the power goes out again. No monetization, or additional generators. That said, in my research, I found out that most of these similar appearing generators are all made at the same Chinese plant. That also includes the GENMAX GM9000iED (now it's the GM9000iEDC), which seems to solve all the shortcomings of the other similar models. It's duel fuel, has nice gauges, can be parallel'd without needing a box, remote start, accessible air filter, has an oil filter, and it exhausts out the rear so they can be side by side without one cooking the other.. it's pretty slick. If I were buying again, I'd go with those. (except they wouldn't fit in my box)

Mine has been running for several years now problem free (knock on wood). Rock solid.

It's 240, it only has two hot legs, there is no neutral. My understanding is that the second channel doesn't talk to the first on the scope, but they share a common ground. As there are only two hot legs cycling back and forth, it had to be hooked up that way. But I'm not an electrician.

Honestly, I sent a picture of my wiring to Micro-Air, and they were kind enough to send it back with markings showing where to hook up what. I just followed what they sent, and it's been working brilliantly for several years now... been very happy with it.

yes absolutely. You can overspec the plug and wiring. But the breaker is up to you how you want to handle it. If you are setting your inlet up to be CAPABLE of taking 50 amps, then yeah, you'd need a 50amp breaker... and if you just happen to feed a max of 30 amps into it, no problem. The breaker needs to match the wiring and socket. If you did a 30 amp breaker, it wouldn't hurt anything, but, if you tried to feed 50amps through the socket later on, the breaker would be prone to tripping.

Depends on the electrician and all that. I'd GUESS, maybe $300. maybe more maybe less. By the time you factor in you buying the cable, conduit, socket, breaker, etc. etc. It might even be more attractive to have an electrician do it if they have the parts on hand.

Glad it was helpful!

It's been rock solid for several years now. Still trucking along. Everyone once in a while when I'm in that part of the house, I'll fire up the app and check in on it. So far so good.

If you can find an inverter 17000w generator, cool beans. This method allows for redundancy, for saving fuel if your loads are less (run only one at a time). If I could have found a 17000w inverter generator for the cost of two of the 9500's though, just to simplify things, I would have happily done that.

Glad I could help

Glad you liked it!

Yes. It's designed to play nice with those. So far it's held up for several years.

thanks. I hate long winded youtube videos... just get to the &*^%$ point. So I made this one to be the "anti-youtube video"... complete with the icon missing that my face making a dumb expression and pointing at something that didn't happen in the video...

Thanks!

Honestly, don't remember at this point. I sent a photo of the wiring to Micro-Air, and they were kind enough to send it back marked up with what to hook up where. I didn't have to thing about that too much.

@@Texas_DIY thanks ， I figured it out and the device was installed

lol thanks. Don't think I'm destined for youtube fame. I refuse to make video icons with my face making a dumb expression, and I don't take 3 minutes to start providing relevant information. And never once do you learn what I had for lunch, nor my cat's name.

I strap it to one of those hitch flat cargo carrier things, so it's only a few feet off the ground. Works just fine for a short trip to the gas station. Getting it down off the carrier is best with two people, but split between two people is totally manageable to just gently set it down from about 2 feet up.

glad you liked it

I'd hit up MicroAir for that one. Couldn't tell you.

I'm specifically referring to Inverter generators. Which is to say, the generators that can run the engine at different speeds, thus producing different AC frequencies, and electronically process that into consistent a clean 240V 60Hz output. Such 240VAC versions are relatively rare. Normal traditional generators do indeed frequently run 240v and are commonplace.

@@Texas_DIY I work in construction. I'm trying to find a reason to waste my money Inverter generator and no those are not rare. Which is what I was referring to.

Meh. It was a fun project, and in the years since I've made it, it's helped us out on several occasions. I'm glad I did it.

Electronics are designed to process 60Hz AC. Often 50-60Hz for modern power supplies. If you lag down a traditional generator with a heavy load, that frequency can drop way out of that range and voltage. Some power supplies may take it, some may shut off the device they're powering (or under power the device). Devices that depend on the frequency for keeping time (often stoves, older clocks, and such) may lose time accuracy. Motors that run directly on AC power (not converted to DC) will run directly proportional to the power frequency, so your compressor, fan motors, etc. Will change speed with the generator's speed/frequency, which could potentially stall, strain or lead to bad things with something like a fridge or AC compressor. Basically, it's harder work on those devices, and can lead to premature failure (often of the capacitors). But it's usually not like some kind of insta-kill. Think of it a bit like driving your personal vehicle really aggressively... that usually won't blow the engine right away, but it does wear it faster and lead to an earlier failure. Now if your whole home generator is sized (oversized) such that it doesn't bog it down on heavy loads, you're probably perfectly fine. But trying to run a home on the type of generator I showed, I'd avoid, as when stuff (even refrigerators and such) turn on, it's gonna mess with the power.

Thank you. You made your point clear. I've installed a soft start on my heat pump. I have also bought a "larger than necessary" generator. This is for emergency use only. If money was not an issue, I would have purchased an inverter generator. Thanks again.

Glad it helped. My next video in the series has a wiring diagram if that's helpful.

Sounds like it might be a Carbon Monoxide sensor. If you're running it in an enclosed space, it's saving your life. If it's doing this in open air or a well ventilated space, it may be defective, or there might be an exhaust leak inside the generator.

@@Texas_DIY I'm not running it in an enclosed space and you would have to be in a room 10x 10 with doors and windows closed for this to ever be a problem. It's not the co2 sensor. I figured it out. It's a diode. They named it the oil safety and it is under the plastic cover with 2 safety screws. When it is attached to the engine it causes a weaker spark and it will run for a couple of seconds. Took me hours to figure this out and a week with HF to figure out what this part is. This machine is poorly engineered as it is very difficult to work on

They are hard to work on. I've since become a fan of the multi-fuel, GENMAX GM9000iED on Amazon. I've confirmed that it's made by the same factory / people that make the Predator and the Duromax machines, and it solves all the shortcomings of those machines. (it has the same engine and most of the same guts, but adds a fuel filter, rear exhaust, 50A front panel plug, remote control electric start, auto choke, nice detailed control panel display... and still makes the same clean power) And because it has that 50A plug, the Powerhorse parallel kit that joins them together can be used stock, with no box, plug, etc. Still going to be a tight fit for servicing, but it's all a more refined version.

I have several videos in that series. It covers the soft start as well, and may answer your questions. Two will certainly handle the air conditioner with the soft start, and if you’re very careful with your loads and turn off most of the stuff in the house you might be able to get away even with one generator and the soft start.

So I been in contact with micro air and getting the right unit for my 5 ton next question I am into this with a 9500 Predator and an electrician who set a 200amp transfer box but he installed a 30 amp interlock which is my fault he did what I said for my generator. Learning a lot here!!! Thanks again it’s getting expensive vs the 22kw generac whole house. so The question is I obviously need a generator that runs a 50amp plug or parallel and get another 950O or get another bigger inverter duromax makes a 16,000 50 amp or a Genmax 10.5k. I don’t understand the amps vs the watts I have run the equation 240/running watts etc so what’s efficient like I am at a point of frustration!!! If say you have a 30 amp outlet on a 9500Predator inverter if it has 32 amp draw will it trip or say a 50 amp on a 16,000 and it draws 53 amps will it trip?

Oh yeah, check out the other videos in the playlist. There are a LOT of metal shavings made during break in. I added a magnetic dipstick to pick some of that junk up out of the oil.

Yup. My other videos where it talks about connecting it to your house emphasizes this VERY heavily. Interlocks physically prevent the breakers from being in a configuration that allows back feeding, and are legal and considered safe. (no need to pull the meter... and in fact, in my area the meters are security tagged and they really.. really... won't like it if you mess with the meter)

No real need to if it's temporary connection (is my understanding). Whole home generators usually do this as they're permanently connected. It's a somewhat debated topic, and generally up to the individual. If you want to do that, I believe the ground connection is directly on the back of the main panel attached to the rear of the grounding post.

glad it helped!

I designed the enclosure to augment the generator's existing cooling fans. Foam strips seal against the generator, such that each unit is exhausting out (both the engine exhaust, and the cooling heat exhaust) this makes the generators themselves pull air through the enclosure, while the DC automotive fans augment them. (this also prevents the exhaust from tripping the CO sensor in the generators). So the generators are pulling air through and cooling normally, so the only added heat is what might radiate out from the plastic generator enclosures... which are pretty well sealed and cooled by design. In my testing, airflow is quite sufficient, I ran them with the lid closed for 4+ hours in the peak TX summer heat with temp probes all over the inside, including the top of the enclosure. The temps were always within a few degrees of ambient.

Glad it was helpful. Sufficiently sized normal generators aren't necessarily bad things... problems happen when undersized units get bogged down with heavy loads.

Glad it was helpful. I can't stand click-bait headlines and ridiculous video icons of the person's face pulling the most stupid expression they can manage... You don't find out my cat's name, what I had for breakfast, or any other filler BS. Just the info, go go go, pause if you need to and back up. I won't ever have a million subscribers (don't beg for "smashing that bell" and subscriptions), but my videos (when I make them) try very hard to be useful and more about the subject matter than my ego. :-)